In song, in dance, in the sound of thousands of feet moving down its streets, in the scent of grilled sardines drifting in from the beach. This is a town that celebrates, and it does so loudly.

And then there are the meals that stay with you—because of the smell of the sea, the sound of the waiter scraping sand off the wooden deck, the way the last bite of grilled octopus makes you pause, if only for a second, just to appreciate it.